Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
